Day 109, Shenandoah Campsite to Telephone Pioneers Shelter
Don't confront me with my failures, I had not forgotten them
Shenandoah Campsite was a quirky, almost creepy place. I didn’t get a good look at it last night because I arrived there just after dark. Seeing it now in the morning light, I was glad I didn’t spend much time here. The land was grassy and flat, so it was good for pitching a tent, but it was next to a boarded up, old house. The house appeared to be an old hunting lodge, not a residence. The building was so cruddy I didn’t bother taking a photo of it.
Day 108, Graymoor Spiritual Center to Shenandoah Campsite
You know the one thing we need is a left-hand monkey wrench
Everything was wet with dew when I awoke this morning. That’s the negative side of sleeping in a open field. As I began packing I realized I needed to make another attempt to repair my pack. But how? I didn’t have any tools or supplies worthy of the job. Then I remembered there were a few beer bottle caps left over from last night’s hiker gathering.
Day 107, Near West Mountain Shelter to Graymoor Spiritual Center
All my rowdy friends are coming over tonight
The Appalachian Trail is often described as a social trail. Hikers form friendships quickly and easily. And no wonder. There are many hikers on the trail, most hiking in the same direction, and frequently congregating at shelters, hostels and trail magic stops. I’ve been fortunate to make many friends on this hike. They share some special qualities that I appreciate. Like me, they enjoy and appreciate the outdoors. They are willing to subject their bodies and mental stamina to hardships. Together, we are pursuing the same goal: walking the entire length of the Appalachian Trail. I frequently marvel at the way I can go several days without seeing a friend, then suddenly see that hiker at some unexpected spot on the trail. Our friendship is instantly renewed when we see each other again.
A long distance hike has a regular routine. Wake up. Hike. Go to sleep. Yet in this sameness there always seems to be at least one little surprise during the day. These moments help to make each day a little different. Today had a few of those small surprises. It also had a big surprise, which should not have been a surprise at all.
It’s easy to tell yourself, “Things will be better when…” or “If only this happens, all will be good.” We know that life isn’t perfect, but we keep hoping that things will fall into place to make it so. Thinking this way is more than just optimism. It requires us to ignore or gloss over known trouble looming in the future.
Day 104, Vernon to Campsite at Mile 1369.1
Sometimes the songs that we hear are just songs of our own
As I described Melissa’s trail magic generosity yesterday, I tried to express how special it was. I have not had an experience like that before, and it was a little difficult for me to know how to accept it. I’ve heard of this sort of thing happening to others, where a stranger offers a clean bed, a hot meal and a chance to clean up and relax without expecting anything in return, but I didn’t anticipate it would happen to me. Why should it happen to me, I’ve wondered? I don’t need help. Besides. all I'm doing is walking. True, I’m walking a long distance, which is sometimes difficult, but it’s just walking. And I'm doing this by choice.
Day 103, Unionville to New Jersey Route 94
And sometimes we visit your country and live in your home
Trail magic is usually just a simple gesture of kindness to help a hiker. It might be an unexpected granola bar handed to you by a passing day hiker, or a nice spread of food and a place to sit, relax and laugh. The farther I’ve walked, the more I’ve come to realize these are more than just small acts of generosity. The people who offer trail magic truly want you to be successful. They hope their simple gesture will lift your spirits and make your hike a bit more enjoyable.
It’s been four days since I last took a shower. Most of the hikers I’m with are equally dirty and smelly. Lately, though, we’ve become more smelly than usual. The weather has been continuously hot and humid. Then it rained yesterday afternoon. But wait, walking in rain is almost like taking a shower, right? Not even close. Think of what a dog smells like when it comes in after being outside in the rain.
I didn’t take many photos today. That shouldn’t be thought of as a reflection of a boring, uneventful day. It was, in fact, memorable, but in ways that could not be captured with a camera.
Thru-hikers today have it easier than hikers did in previous decades. The trail is mostly the same as it was then. We still have to walk and climb, just as hikers have always done. The two main differences for us are cell phones and the lighter materials used in our gear. As cell phones began to be commonplace, there was some pushback by some hikers. They tried to shame those who brought their phones with them on the trail, complaining that the phones brought in too much of the technological world into the natural world. I haven’t noticed anyone making a pretense of that now. Everyone has a phone and they use it when they please. Generally, though, cell phone use is now more discrete because hikers tend to use texting more than calling, and that helps to limit the intrusion.
This morning was our last morning in Pennsylvania. Thankfully, it was without any rocks. The same could not be said about the afternoon in New Jersey. Nevertheless, the morning and afternoon were made pleasant by sunny weather and good times with friends.
Yesterday was a rough day, but I expected today would be better. This was the last day of Rocksylvania, so it couldn’t get any worse, right?
There have been many days like yesterday. I hope there will be many more. These are days when difficult climbs are rewarded with magnificent vistas. Long hiking miles are rewarded with opportunities to meet interesting people. These are the days I enjoy the most. Today was not one of those days.
Long before I started this hike I had known about the rocks of Pennsylvania. What I didn’t know until I reached Rocksylvania was the trail isn’t a continuous jumble of rocks. Only about half of the trail through this part of the state is covered in rocks. I’ve begun to think of the AT in Pennsylvania as the Jekyll and Hyde Trail. It’s half good and half evil. As of today there are just under 50 miles to go to finish Rocksylvania. Thanks to yesterday’s zero day, I feel much better about making it to the Delaware River in one piece.
An expression you sometimes hear on the trail, and one I’ve even said myself, is “Embrace the suck”. It’s borrowed from the military. There will be challenges, so the thought goes, but you just have to roll with them. Accept them. Let them motivate and give you strength. And then came Rocksylvania. I’ve fallen down and twisted my ankle too many times to embrace that suck. The rocks and the monotony of a trail without many views have been dispiriting. The rain is no fun either, but it’s the wear and tear on my body lately that has made me feeling down. I was beat up. I was frustrated and angry.